WHAT/WHERE?

If you’re ho ho over the Lapland hype, try Switzerland this Christmas for a more stylish family experience at the Montreux Noel – a fantastic 48 hrs of festive magic. The ‘Montreux Riviera’ is a collection of small towns and villages sitting on the eastern edge of Lake Geneva with boutiques, bars and cafés nestled at the foot of the Alps.

Visit Santa’s mountain hideaway, explore amazing medieval Swiss castles, and ride on the 34m Ferris Wheel as Santa flies past on his way to deliver presents. Wander through one of the prettiest Christmas Markets in Europe and sample traditional and modern Swiss cuisine including the richest cheese fondue , roast wild boar and heartwarming Vin Chaud.

LOCAL INTEL

Things to know before you go: it’s French speaking. Although – quelle suprise – pretty much everyone, from the hotel staff to the train drivers speak English. You can fly to Geneva and take a direct train around Lake Geneva to Montreux in just over one hour – an easy, simple journey that is oh-so civilised. In winter, locals go BIG on Christmas. In summer, enjoy award-winning vineyards and lake swims. So don’t forget to pack your cozzie!

The annual Montreux Jazz Festival in July is the stuff of music legend, and in 2023 hosted Bob Dylan, Lionel Richie, Sam Smith, Lil Nas X, Mark Ronson and Christine and the Queens, to name just a few. Diehard Freddie Mercury fans might know this, but the singer lived here for many years and recorded his final albums here and you can still visit his studio.

CHRISTMAS HIGHLIGHTS

Montreux Noel Market

Between 23 Nov – 24 Dec each year you can wander through Market Square with its Ferris Wheel, stonking views of the lake, and promenade along the water’s edge, stopping at the many stalls to buy artisan gifts. Father Christmas makes an appearance like clockwork at 5pm, 6pm and 7pm – greeting the crowds as he flies across the sky, much to the delight of the kids below. It’s easy to lose a couple of hours mooching among the traditional wooden stalls or dive head first into a vat of melted cheese eating fondue or Raclette at local restaurants. The abundance of natural wood and sheepskin feel like Wham’s Last Christmas video (minus the 80s hair and Christmas jumpers. Our top tip? Book ahead as it gets busy. Not that organised? Make a beeline for the street vendors for a a quick saucissons, grill, churros and crêpes.

Santa Claus’s House

The stuff of kids dreams, you can take Santa Claus’s Train and be whisked up into the snowy mountains above Montreux to visit Santa’s House in Rochers-de-Nayer. It’s a fun 50 min journey from the central main station (opposite the  Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic hotel) with breathtaking views of the Alps, stopping occasionally at pretty Swiss villages. As the cog wheel train climbs higher, so does the excitement. Once we reach our magical destination, we jump off and walk through a tunnel of 10,000 twinkly lights deep into the heart of the mountain itself before entering Santa’s colourful grotto where the big man is there to greet you. Once obligatory festive photos are taken and gifts and apples given out, you can venture out to throw a few snowballs, make snow angels and pick up a hot chocolate for the return journey!

Christmas at Chateau de Chillon

For a great afternoon trip, hop on the train again and head to the historic old town of Veytaux-Chillon (11 mins direct from Montreux) to explore the Disney-like medieval Château de Chillon one of Switzerland’s most popular tourist destinations. With its well-preserved draw bridge, crystal clear moat and cobbled streets, you can watch medieval re-enactments at the Castle’s Forge and Armoury, or make candles, bread and head-dresses in the Great Hall, before climbing the spiral steps to the top of the highest tower. Prepare for Insta spam, the castle rooftop are photographic gold. Tickets from £12.20pp.

Montreux Jazz Festival to The Queen Experience

Montreux is incredibly proud of its connection to music with the world-renowned Jazz Festival each year and being once home to the legendary Mountain Music Studio, now sitting within Montreux Casino. Davie Bowie, Queen, Deep Purple, Nina Simone all recorded here, and Freddie Mercury loved it so much he moved to the town in order to get away from the London Paparazzi and find tranquillity and creative space for his music writing. Even if you’re not especially into Queen’s music, I’d urge you to spend 30 mins in the  Museum. I found it engrossing. The filmed interviews and footage of their music, celebrating glam rock and crowd-pleasing anthems is incredibly moving, and it touches on Freddie’s personal battle with AIDS. I shed a tear for gawd’s sake! Entry is free.

Boat Trips to Vevey and beyond

From Montreux you can venture out onto the glass-like water of Lake Geneva on a two-hour boat trip stopping at many of the picturesque Riviera towns and villages including Vevey, Vexteux Chillon and Villeneuve – the former known for being the home of Charlie Chaplin for over 30 years and hosting an award-winning Chaplin’s World celebrating the Golden Screen actor. Boat trips run on Sundays in winter or daily during the summer and cost £27.50pp.

SCOFF & QUAFF

The choice of restaurants is abundant in the Riviera from traditional to modern, fine dining to casual. Our favourites were the ultra-modern Fondue Tube in Montreux, a cool outdoor glass-dining experience situated at Eurotel where you could dip your bread into rich Gruyere cheese and enjoy cooking your own marinated beef fillet modzetta fondue. 

For something more traditional, La Coupole opposite Vevey’s beautiful train station had mahogany panels and ceiling fresco’s, introducing me to Swiss “roesti” gratinated with Vacherin cheese and cured meet along with a heart-warming Crayfish bisque from the lake flavoured with Armagnac.  

For the best dining view in the city, Grand Hotel Swiss Majestic’s Restaurant 45 with terrace, has the most breathtaking panoramic view and a menu to match. We had a light lunch of lemon and ricotta ravioli with spinach and lemongrass coulis and roast pistachios. From the Huntsman Special menu, fillet of wild boar accompanied by chanterelles, red cabbage preserve and chestnut mouselline. Swiss wines, locally produced on the slopes around the lake at Villeneuve, were delicious and we enjoyed Cave des Rois Sauvignon Blanc (2022) and Jolicoeur Assemblage Rouge (2021)

WHERE TO STAY

We were lucky enough to stay at Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic, the grandest and most elegant of hotels in Montreux overlooking Lake Geneva. With 155 rooms and suites. It’s a stone’s throw from the train station (literally opposite!) and as soon as you walk through its grand doors you can enjoy 4-star superior service inviting everyone to relax, rejuvenate and soak up the breathtaking lakeside views.

Bedrooms are elegant, well-appointed with sleep inducing luxury beds that completely envelope you. To make the most of your stay make sure you ask for room with a Lakeside view, and take Champagne on either the large sun deck before enjoying the culinary delights of Restaurant 45. For those looking for a moment of wellbeing or fitness training, pop up to the Ninth floor gym with steam room and sauna.

GETTING THERE

SWISS connects Switzerland with the world, offering more than 160 weekly flights from London Heathrow, London City, Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh and London Gatwick (seasonal) to Geneva. One-way fares start from £54 to Geneva (taxes, fees and surcharges included), one piece of luggage weighing up to 23kg and one hand luggage. swiss.com The SBB Train from Geneva Airport straight to Monteux takes 70 mins and is a lovely relaxing way to travel. A return ticket costs: First Class, £120pp and Second Class, £70pp.

The Swiss Travel Pass offers unlimited travel on consecutive days across the local Swiss Travel System rail, bus and boat network. This pass also covers scenic routes and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities, and includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which allows you free entrance to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from £209 for a three-day second-class ticket. MySwitzerland.com/swisstravelsystem

• Muddy Stilettos was the guest of The canton of Vaud, for more information visit www.myvaud.ch
• For more information on Switzerland, visit MySwitzerland.com