When it comes to family and ski resorts, compromise is key. A snow holiday might once have involved mountain-top bars playing loud Euro pop, downing Jägermeisters for courage to tackle the icy death (I mean last) run of the day and dancing in ski boots, but surprisingly these are no longer top of my list when it comes to a place for my seven-year-old son Sol to learn to ski. 

As my hedonism wears away along with my ligaments and kids take priority, things like ‘affordable’, ‘car-free’ and ‘beginner’s slope close by’ have become more of a selling point, which is how I found myself on a four-day break in Oz last week, the most convenient ski resort I’ve ever been to. 

WHAT? WHERE?

A British Airways’ flight, rather than ruby slippers, transported me to Oz which lies in the shadow of Alps d’Huez Grand Domaine, part of France’s southeastern Isère region. 

Built around 50 years ago, it’s official name is Oz-en-Oisans (or Oz 3300 as it’s recently been rebranded) and it’s a petite resort high in the mountains around a one-hour transfer by road from Grenoble (or two from Lyons) and picture-postcard pretty.

THE VIBE?

Utterly charming. I’m a sucker for a traditional Alpine resort (give me Heidi-style chalets over 60s brutalist apartments any day) and Oz hits the spot with its scattering of sloped-roof chalets, cute ESF ski school building and handful of shops, equipment hire places and restaurants. 

You get the picture. This isn’t the place to come if you want a dance on the tables Aprés ski scene. It’s a small, quiet resort ideal for families, with a beginners’ slope a one-minute stroll (or toddle, plenty of French tots start skiing at TWO) from the centre but, and this is key, an enormous number of runs just a gondola ride away.

PISTE OF THE ACTION

On our first morning Sol and I parted company. Watching him waddle off in tiny ski boots for a three-hour (9am-noon) lesson with his new hero, dashing ESF instructor Antoine, I felt a bit apprehensive – what if he hated it? Would he be warm enough? What if Antoine just shouts “bend zee knees” at him occasionally for three hours like my ski school instructor did back in the 80s? 

Luckily my anxious mum brain was soon distracted by the appearance of my guide Benoit, who expertly assessed the situation and whisked me to the baby slope to see Sol already getting to grips with the pizza slice technique before taking us, via three scenic gondola rides, to Pic Blanc. 

If anything’s going to make you forget about leaving your child alone with a stranger on a mountain for three hours, it’s this majestic 3,330-metre peak dominating the area with life-affirming, 360˚ views as far as Mont Blanc and distant Chartreuse mountain range. 

Thanks to a knee strain from a previous snow holiday and being a bit of a scaredy cat skiier, I had no intention of cruising down the notorious La Sarenne run from the peak – at 16K it’s the longest black run in the Alps, yikes. In fact I wasn’t planning on any ski action, so the next distraction was a 4K Nordic hike (yep, I even used poles).

We slowly crossed the fragile beauty of a frozen landscape, where the faint outline of lakes lay hidden beneath a smooth blanket of snow, rocky peaks rose like shark fins out of white crests and a valley bathed in sunshine far, far below caressed by trees and emerald lakes untouched by snow, looked like a different world. 

As we reached restaurant L’Alpette, a supreme sun-trap and lunch spot, Sol and Antoine appeared, casually gliding from gondola to dining terrace. It turned out that rather than missing me and hating the cold, my son had fallen in love with skiing and Antoine and quickly abandoned the beginner’s slope to tackle some green runs higher up the mountain. We celebrated with glasses of rosé and Coca-Cola. 

The next day, we split up again. Sol and Antoine heading to the Alps d’Huez area, where a world of sun-kissed mellow blue and green runs awaited. Meanwhile Benoit and I hopped in the Alpette lift to 2,800-metre Dome des Rousses, where we embarked on a snowshoe hike into the wilds. I knew we were going crazy off-piste when he handed me an avalanche transceiver to put in my pocket, not the most reassuring start to a new activity. 

There’s a distinctly intrepid vibe to snowshoeing, the way you can reach previously inaccessible areas and leave only your print in the snow feels very Scott of the Antarctic. Halfway through our 4K adventure, we stood still on top of a two-metre high snowdrift and heard…nothing; no skiiers or boarders, no mountain goats or flapping buzzards, no whirr of lifts or drone of a plane.

Nothing but the sun sparkling on untouched snow and a vast expanse of blue sky – I’d never experienced such calm and contentment in the mountains and realised it’s because I’ve always been hurtling down them or trying to climb up them. It’s similar to the part of surfing when you’re neither paddling out to sea nor catching a wave, you’re just lying on your board in the sunshine and waiting, immersed in nature without a care in the world. Then my tummy rumbled and broke the silence. 

It turns out snowshoeing burns around 600 calories an hour, that’s how hardcore it is doubters. Benoit, who swept his arms open and declared “I love my office”, produced a warm (non-alcoholic, sadly) apple drink from a flask which provided enough energy to keep trekking through the powder to Le Grange, our mountainside lunch spot. 

Sol and his instructor soon joined us, full of tales of button lifts, blue run firsts and, shockingly, snowball fights. “He threw them at me Mummy, when I was moving!” Sol revealed with a huge grin. Never has there been a better match of pupil and teacher. My son’s final afternoon on the slopes saw him ski all the way down to Oz, which even included a little bit of a red run. I’m still in awe of them both: patience, confidence and humour combined is clearly a powerful thing. 

APRÉS-SKI ACTIVITIES

After-ski doesn’t always mean one drink too many with mates, Oz has lots to offer besides boozing, including yoga, Airboarding and ice caves.

A free yoga lesson in Oz’s community centre was an unexpected bonus. Teacher Elodie Geles’ hour of gentle sequences incorporated plenty of cat-cow and downward dog stretches to ease muscles used in the mountains. She also offers private lessons and weekly Snowga (snow yoga) which takes place further up the mountain at 10am on Tuesday mornings during the winter season, with students doing the moves dressed in their ski gear – what a magnificent way to start the day.

Sol and I stayed at Timberlodge Hotel and its sauna, steam room and pool were a pleasant place to relax after a day’s snow action – the pool’s chilly, but there’s nothing like hotting up in a sauna then jumping in cool water to revive the senses ready for an evening consuming wine and cheese. 

You can ski or catch a gondola to La Grotte De Glace, a tunnel carved out of snow each year housing inner chambers of ice sculptures, this season with a Caribbean Sea theme. It’s a fun, leave-no-trace art installation and just €7 to view. 

Don’t miss the chance to whizz down Oz’s beginner slope on Airboards (inflatable sledges) – digging in your heels to prevent shooting through the netting at the bottom. It’s a free activity offered by the tourist office and Sol loved it (and I loved watching it). 

A guided sunset walk along the circular Pré Raynaud trail on the edge of the resort was the perfect way to stretch out tired ski and snowshoe legs. The best bit? After passing through woodland hiding Roman ruins, we stopped in a field with expansive mountain and valley views while our guide, Pierre, poured wine for the adults, a soft drink for Sol and handed round meat and cheese as we chatted while the sun sank. Another pinch me moment in the land of Oz. 

It’s definitely worth stopping by The Tourist Office on your first day to check out all the extra activities on offer – apparently there’s also husky sledding, torch-lit descents and walks around the village ending with marshmallow roasting and escapades to mountainside restaurants in a snowplough. 

EAT & DRINK

The mountain chalet restaurants are so scenic and welcoming, it’s hard to leave once you’re settled in a deckchair in the sun. Le Grange, near the Alpette lift, was my favourite spot, largely due to its huge wood-fired pizzas and a mountain platter (€23) piled high with charcuterie, cheeses, pickles and creamy potato Dauphonise served in a dinky pot. The kids’ menu delivered exactly what was needed after a morning on the slopes too – saucisson et fritte followed by a Harbio ice lolly. 

Another day we enjoyed lunch at L’Alpette, devouring a plate of steaming spag bol and chicken Caesar salad (€15), after which Sol joined his new pal Lily climbing slopes, rolling around and trying out a snowboard as a sledge. Tip: never let kids use a snowboard as a sledge, when they let go it will travel for miles and have to be rescued by a ski instructor. 

Back in Oz, al fresco sunset drinks followed by dinner at La Ferme d’Oz was a relaxed affair, with a menu full of French classics like escargot, beef tartare and fondue – we opted for the three cheese, something I didn’t even know was legal.

STAY

You can spot Timberlodge Hotel at night thanks to its abundance of fairylights, a twinkling sign of sanctuary on the mountainside. Continuing with the convenience theme, its location couldn’t be better with super easy access to the ski school, beginner slope, hire shops and gondola – everything’s less than five minutes away. Inside, a simple, Scandi-esque open-plan bar, lounge and dining room, where breakfast and dinner are served, make for a chilled atmosphere. Our family room was extremely spacious, with bunk beds and double bed and lots of wood features. It’s not lavish and our view of a village road, rather than the mountain range, was a slight let down, though the balcony was a lovely place to relax in the sunshine and the pool and steam room a bonus.

VERDICT

More family fun than you can shake a snowshoe at. Oz might be small, but its quick, easy links to the enormous surrounding ski area and convenient set up make it mighty. At no stage did this ski holiday feel like a drudge, which (sorry ski fans) it can do with kids in tow, particularly when you’re lugging their heavy equipment for miles, trying to find passes left up a mountain and mopping up icy fatigue tears and snot.

At an altitude high enough for big dumps of snow even in April yet bathed in warm sunshine, I liked Oz so much I’m planning to return next Easter, though it appears the budget apartments and hotels get booked well in advance. You have been warned.

GO THERE!

Timberlodge Hotel from £140pn for a family room (sleeps four in two single beds and one queen sized bed) excluding breakfast. Return flights from London Heathrow to Lyon Airport from £101pp with British Airways. For more information about the region, visit Alpes Isere.