Muddy Stilettos


<h2 class="wp-block-heading">WHAT? WHERE? </h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-47943" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown.jpeg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-720x480.jpeg 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-787x525.jpeg 787w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>Valletta, Malta’s honey-hued capital, was built by the Knights of St John in the 16th Century and wandering around the fortifications feels a bit like being on a set of <em>Game of Thrones </em>(though with less sex and violence) &#8211; way more impressive than I’d expected stepping off a three-hour flight from London.&nbsp;</p>



<p>Refreshingly clean and well-presented, the city&#8217;s best explored by foot and I discovered museums, squares and ancient churches at every turn with occasional glimpses of the sea down narrow side lanes off shop-lined thoroughfare Republic Street. Malta’s just 17 miles long and 9 miles wide, so you’re never actually more than 15 minutes from the Med.&nbsp;</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">EAT &amp; DRINK </h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-47944" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-1.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-1-720x480.jpg 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-1-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>The dining scene here is scorchio and the hottest ticket in town’s a seat on the terrace of&nbsp;<a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="ION-The Harbour (opens in a new tab)" href="https://iontheharbour.com" target="_blank">ION-The Harbour</a>, a sceney rooftop restaurant above luxurious <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Iniala (opens in a new tab)" href="https://inialamalta.com" target="_blank">Iniala</a> boutique hotel. It was recently awarded a Michelin-star and it’s definitely deserved &#8211; the setting, service and sensational food deserve a Milky Way of awards.  </p>



<p>I tried the seven-course tasting menu, the highlight of which were a delicate dish of marinated shrimp, caviar, ginger and creme cru and araguani chocolate, which came topped with caramel-dipped sourdough (who even knew that was a thing?).&nbsp;</p>



<p>For modern Maltese food with a touch of French flair, like rabbit confit and octopus tagine, there’s <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Noni (opens in a new tab)" href="https://noni.com.mt" target="_blank">Noni</a>, which is hands down the local&#8217;s fave (literally every one I met asked if I&#8217;d been) and was also given a Michelin-star last year. Sadly it was fully booked when I visited, but that&#8217;s an excuse to go back, right? </p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_122698058_201724237983627_6165055246930704488_o_201724234650294-1-600x450-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-47947" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_122698058_201724237983627_6165055246930704488_o_201724234650294-1-600x450-1.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_122698058_201724237983627_6165055246930704488_o_201724234650294-1-600x450-1-300x200.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_122698058_201724237983627_6165055246930704488_o_201724234650294-1-600x450-1-720x480.jpg 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_122698058_201724237983627_6165055246930704488_o_201724234650294-1-600x450-1-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>Not keen on tiny plates of rich, fiddly food? I hear you, sometimes we all prefer a large plate of comfort food without a jus or foam in sight, in which case make a beeline for <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Gracy’s  (opens in a new tab)" href="https://gracysmalta.com" target="_blank">Gracy’s</a>. I loved the stunning 17th Century palazzo setting here, not to mention my large moules&nbsp;marinière starter followed by an even larger bowl of tuna tagliatelle. The roof terrace wasn&#8217;t open when I visited, but if you can bag a seat up there because the city views are superb.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_pxl_20210908_185653829portrait.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-47951" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_pxl_20210908_185653829portrait.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_pxl_20210908_185653829portrait-300x200.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_pxl_20210908_185653829portrait-720x480.jpg 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_pxl_20210908_185653829portrait-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>I came across <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Trabuxu (opens in a new tab)" href="http://trabuxu.com.mt/bistro/" target="_blank">Trabuxu</a> during an evening stroll around the super-safe streets and can&#8217;t recommend it enough. It&#8217;s Malta’s oldest wine bar and I felt like a local perched on a rickety stool by a barrel table tucking into Maltese cheeses and wine late into the night.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_132520.png" alt="" class="wp-image-47955" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_132520.png 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_132520-300x200.png 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_132520-720x480.png 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_132520-788x525.png 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>Close to the harbour front lies enchanting <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Bridge Bar, (opens in a new tab)" href="https://www.facebook.com/www.bridgebar.valletta/" target="_blank">Bridge Bar,</a> which has live music on Friday nights and candle-lit tables and chairs cascading down outside steps like something from a film set.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_1screenshot_2021-10-21_at_133422.png" alt="" class="wp-image-47961" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_1screenshot_2021-10-21_at_133422.png 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_1screenshot_2021-10-21_at_133422-300x200.png 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_1screenshot_2021-10-21_at_133422-720x480.png 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_1screenshot_2021-10-21_at_133422-788x525.png 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>Be sure to order a coffee and pastizzi (traditional Maltese pastry) at <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Caffe Cordina (opens in a new tab)" href="http://www.caffecordina.com" target="_blank">Caffe Cordina</a> as it’s illegal to leave the island without sitting outside this legendary people-watching spot (it’s not really, but you get the idea).&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-2.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-47962" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-2.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-2-300x200.jpg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-2-720x480.jpg 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_unknown-2-788x525.jpg 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>And if you want to let your hair down head to <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Cafe Society (opens in a new tab)" href="https://www.facebook.com/cafesocietyuptown/" target="_blank">Cafe Society</a> for cocktails at the copper-topped bar &#8211; make like the locals and sit on the steps if the tables are full.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_131751.png" alt="" class="wp-image-47948" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_131751.png 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_131751-300x200.png 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_131751-720x480.png 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_131751-788x525.png 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">HOW TO SEE IT BEST </h2>



<p>When I wasn’t eating (which was rare tbh), I ditched the guidebook and wandered &#8211; always the best way to discover some really interesting, quirky places, like <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Casa Rocca Piccola (opens in a new tab)" href="https://casaroccapiccola.com" target="_blank">Casa Rocca Piccola</a>. This eccentric palazzo museum is owned by a Marquis (he still lives there and appeared out of the blue for a chat!) and packed to the rafters with art, books and Maltese memorabilia (photo of Meghan Markle in traditional Maltese dress, anyone?), plus there’s a pretty courtyard where you’ll find his pet parrot and a World War II bunker.&nbsp;</p>



<p>Boat&#8217;s another brilliant way of getting around. I headed for the harbour front, via an outside lift at Upper Barrakka Gardens and hopped on a brightly-coloured traditional wooden Maltese gondola (dghajsa) for €3 to reach the Three Cities, camera phone at the ready capturing all the Valletta views along the way. Once ashore I sat on the terrace at <a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="https://donberto.com" target="_blank">Don Berto</a> restaurant and ordered the seafood risotto (I know, eating AGAIN), then worked off the calories with a dip in one of the roped-off sea pools.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-3.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-47964" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-3.jpeg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-3-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-3-720x480.jpeg 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-3-787x525.jpeg 787w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">CULTURAL HIGHLIGHTS </h2>



<p><a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="St John’s Co-Cathedral (opens in a new tab)" href="https://www.stjohnscocathedral.com" target="_blank">St John’s Co-Cathedral</a> is probably the most dazzlingly opulent place of worship I’ve ever visited; think vaulted ceilings, floor-to-ceiling gold leaf-clad pillars, marble-inlaid tombstones and incredible art work, including two dramatic Caravaggio’s in the Oratory (the only ones he painted outside Italy).&nbsp;</p>



<p>Venus statues unearthed in island temples dating back more than 5000 years can be found in the <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="National Museum of Archaeology (opens in a new tab)" href="https://heritagemalta.org/national-museum-of-archaeology/" target="_blank">National Museum of Archaeology</a> and I also took a wander around <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="MUZA (opens in a new tab)" href="https://heritagemalta.org/muza-national-community-art-museum/" target="_blank">MUZA</a>, the city’s cool carbon-neutral community art museum filled with beautifully curated pieces, from modern art through to traditional oil paintings capturing every day life on the island.&nbsp;</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134503.png" alt="" class="wp-image-47965" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134503.png 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134503-300x200.png 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134503-720x480.png 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134503-788x525.png 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>Just before midday you&#8217;ve got to go full-on tourist, grab a coffee and gelato from the kiosk at Upper Barraka Gardens and catch the daily noon salute from the battery of cannons overlooking Grand Harbour. I thought they fired real cannon balls and was concerned about the passing boats *hangs head in shame*. They don&#8217;t, but it&#8217;s still loud and fun. </p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">WHERE TO STAY</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-5.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-47966" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-5.jpeg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-5-300x200.jpeg 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-5-720x480.jpeg 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Unknown-5-787x525.jpeg 787w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>Restored 17th Century palazzo <a href="http://domuszamittello.com">Domus Zamittello</a> was my Baroque boutique hotel of dreams, with 21 pretty rooms filled with white-washed antique furniture and enormous beds, a spectacular glass-roofed atrium and hidden roof terrace &#8211; <em>the</em> perfect place for an Aperol Spritz at sunset. There might not be a pool, but it overlooks Valletta’s open-air concert theatre, <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Pjazza Teatru Rjal (opens in a new tab)" href="https://culture.gov.mt/en/pjazzateatrurjal/Pages/main.aspx" target="_blank">Pjazza Teatru Rjal</a> and if you&#8217;re lucky like I was, there might be a rehearsal or even a show on! </p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">MUDDY INSIDER TIP </h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="666" src="https://muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134845.png" alt="" class="wp-image-47967" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134845.png 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134845-300x200.png 300w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134845-720x480.png 720w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/rsz_screenshot_2021-10-21_at_134845-788x525.png 788w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>Buy a day pass to the iconic five-star <a rel="noreferrer noopener" aria-label="Phoenicia Hotel (opens in a new tab)" href="https://www.phoeniciamalta.com" target="_blank">Phoenicia Hotel</a>, (Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip used to dance there when he was a Naval Officer in Malta), which includes lunch and access to its beautiful infinity pool with fab-u-lous city views.&nbsp;Sightseeing while swimming, Muddy&#8217;s kinda of city break. </p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading">HOW TO GET THERE </h2>



<p><a href="http://ryanair.com">Ryanair</a> flies to Valletta from as little as £34 return throughout the winter.&nbsp;Rooms at <a href="http://domuszamittello.com">Domus Zamittello</a> start from €149pn. </p>


A stunning city break in honey-hued Valletta, Malta

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