Muddy Stilettos

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<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-lowdown">THE LOWDOWN</h2>



<a href="https://kaliyoga.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Kaliyoga</a> is an idyllic wellness and yoga retreat just outside the town of Órgiva in Las Alpujarras, the beautiful foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains of Andalusia, between the coast and the ancient city of Granada. This is Driving over Lemons country – the best-selling memoir of Chris Stewart, founding member of rock legend Genesis, who still lives nearby – with mountains dotted with little white villages, lush vegetation and exotic birds. Bliss.



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Named after the Hindu goddess, Kali, who symbolises the necessity of change and ‘letting go of the past to make room for a more purposeful present and future’, Kaliyoga provides a space for mindful activity, reflection and personal growth, with yoga sessions, holistic treatments, beautiful walks, super-delicious healthy food, in a restful and supportive environment. 



It&#8217;s a doddle to get there – just jump on a plane to Malaga and Kaliyoga will arrange transfer to the retreat, an hour and a half’s drive through stunning coastal and mountain scenery.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-vibe">THE VIBE</h2>



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Once the home of Kaliyoga founders Jonathan and Rosie Miles, the retreat retains a family feel. Under the management of healing therapist Kim, the staff – Spanish and from across the globe, reflecting the area’s international, alternative community – couldn’t do enough for us. We felt more like favourite house guests than clients.



On arrival, the other guests and I were welcomed onto the terrace with a chilled drink, bowl of gazpacho and homemade oat bread. Showered and changed, we then met in the spacious yoga studio (beautiful, with glorious mountain views) for Kim’s rejuvenating and immersive crystal sound bath before dinner. It was the perfect start.



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The stunning mountain setting, with its exotic birds and plants, is as much a part of the therapy as the treatments. I&#8217;d feared August would be too hot, but actually the temperature felt perfect, with a refreshing mountain breeze, plenty of shade, air conditioning in the rooms and the option of a dip in the pool.



Early mornings are pretty special, sitting on your private balcony with a coffee as the sun rises over the mountains. Listening to the melodious trill of the bee eaters (a rainbow flash of azure blue, yellow and russet red), or the fluting whistle of the golden orioles who, in the evenings, perform spirit-lifting acrobatics amidst the swaying palms, before the moon, impossibly bright, rises over the mountains. It doesn’t get much better than this.



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Even at full capacity the retreat never takes more than 16-18 people, the most popular times being spring and autumn, when a hiking/yoga combo is on offer. The place is full of good karma and the friends you will make are part of the experience, with most people travelling solo.



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All activities are optional, but for those who want the full retreat experience, there’s a wonderful rhythm to the day. Each morning starts with the ringing of Tibetan bells, followed by morning yoga and breakfast. There’s the option of a therapy or lounge by the pool before lunch. Afternoons are free to doze, read, swim or wander round the lovely gardens, before the much anticipated sweet treat (think coconut ice cream or delicious home made halva), perfect for getting your energy up for the evening yoga. Then it&#8217;s evening tapas and mocktails, before dinner on the terrace.



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While it’s all delightfully laid back, there are a few rules guests are respectfully asked to follow, like not using electronic devices in the common areas – just the right encouragement for a digital detox. Silence before morning yoga was encouraged (though not always followed).&nbsp; Alcohol could only be consumed off the premises, and although there was always the option of an evening drink at one of the local bars, to our utter astonishment we never felt the need to take this up.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-scoff-amp-quaff">SCOFF &amp; QUAFF</h2>



Food is a highlight here. Who would have thought that the combo of plant-based and gluten-free could be so flavoursome and varied? The retreat took healthy cuisine to another level, winning over even the most hardened carnivores in our party.



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The alchemy of fresh and nutritious ingredients, presented with creativity and flair, made each dish a feast for the eyes as well as the body. The culinary experience was further enhanced by fairytale elements like bee pollen (a crunchy, golden adornment for creamy deserts), infusions of orange blossom or hibiscus flowers (tastes a bit like cranberry) and gorgeous edible flower garnishes (who knew that bougainvillea could be used in this way?).



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A typical breakfast might be seed bread, garlicky grated tomatoes, softly boiled egg, avocado (ripened to perfection) and cheese, followed by a nutrient-packed spinach, coconut, almond, melon and ginger smoothie.



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For lunch, think spinach, lamb&#8217;s lettuce, roast red onion, griddled peach, green beans and caramelised chickpea, drizzled with basil and peach dressing and topped with grilled halloumi.&nbsp;



At dinner, we could be tucking into smashed eggplant with tahini yogurt sauce, roast potato wedges and toasted sunflower seeds, followed by a chocoholic’s desert of sweet potato and chocolate tart (weirdly, it works). And with such a delicious array of smoothies and refreshing mocktails, frankly, who needs alcohol?



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-pillow-talk">PILLOW TALK</h2>



Accommodation, overlooking lush gardens and mountains, is simple, comfortable and rustic, rather than spa-style luxury, although all rooms are ensuite and air-conditioned, with the exception of the two teepees in the garden and &#8216;The Nest&#8217; a charming hideaway with separate compost loo. 



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I stayed in one of the casitas set amidst gardens of flowering shubs, aromatic herbs, exotic cacti and succulents – perfect for nature lovers.



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Further rooms are available in the old rustic farmhouse, which comes into its own in the cooler months, with cosy living areas perfect for snuggling up in front of the wood burner.



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<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-yoga-amp-meditation">YOGA &amp; MEDITATION</h2>



My relationship with yoga has been casual at best, so this was an opportunity to go beyond the weekly yoga class (where Savasana ends up as a ‘mat nap’ at the end of a working day) and develop a more regular yoga practice.



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At first, I confess I was slightly daunted by the idea of three hours of yoga a day. Although it was a challenge getting started, I was pleasantly surprised at how quickly I got into the flow. This was mostly down to our lovely Hungarian yoga teacher, Boogie – a calm, knowledgeable and attentive presence, always ready with an alternative pose if we found ourselves struggling for any reason. She had the knack of turning any difficulty into an achievement: witness my pride when (as someone with no balance) I managed a pale (and let’s face it, wobbly) imitation of the balancing act that is Warrior Three.



All levels are catered for, from beginners to advanced. Morning was dynamic yoga – thankfully less vigorous than it sounds, allowing us time in and between each posture. Grounding and energising, it was a wonderful start to the day.



Evening was somatic yin yoga, which involved holding postures for longer, to release all the tensions of the day. Holding a pose for 3-5 minutes was actually harder than it looked, but gratifyingly became easier as the week went on, to the point where I could happily have stayed in some of the poses for the rest of the evening if dinner hadn’t called.



A guided meditation and visualisation session with Alvar proved something of a revelation, when I established that my drifting in and out of consciousness, without falling asleep, meant I had actually achieved a meditative state (who knew?!).



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-treatments">THE TREATMENTS</h2>



There&#8217;s a range of optional holistic treatments. First for me was a Swedish and deep tissue massage by lovely nurse Matt, who had the requisite strong hands. Whilst I had no obvious aches and pains, Matt soon found some knots and muscles to work on, and I emerged walking on air, with straighter shoulders than before.



This was followed by quantum naturopathy, to detect and correct energetic imbalances deep within the body. Therapist Pablo used biofeedback, taking my pulse and moving a laser across my body, to locate any disruptions and stresses. Followed by healing techniques (which involved mirrors) to correct any imbalances and bring me back into alignment. Two of the Kaliyoga staff swore by it for emotional problems, and a couple of small studies do suggest benefit for certain conditions. I like to think it may have contributed to the undeniable feeling of wellbeing I had on leaving the retreat.



Last was a venous flow full body massage by Lesley, a holistic healer. Lesley uses a powerful combination of Swedish and deep tissue massage, acupressure, Reiki and mindfulness to stimulate ‘a deep healing journey’ &#8211; which describes it perfectly. As well as being incredibly relaxing, the overriding effect was one of deep release and letting go (like a big hug). Two of us had her that same morning, and afterwards, all we could do was silently mouth &#8216;OMG&#8217; to each other.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-out-and-about">OUT AND ABOUT</h2>



After yoga and brunch, Wednesdays is a free day, with plenty to do in the area. The ancient, Moorish city of Granada, with its world famous Alhambra palace, is less than hour away and the beach resort of Salobrena even closer. 



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We visited the pretty, white mountain village of Pampaneira, spectacularly located on the edge of a ravine, where Berber-style houses jostle for position to avoid tumbling off the edge. We enjoyed a drink and tapas, watching locals rubbing shoulders with Spanish tourists, before walking 15 minutes to a waterfall for a refreshing dip, with the sun beaming through the trees bathing the pool in an ethereal light.



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That evening we dined out at a little Moroccan restaurant in Olivaga, a popular local hangout, before returning to the town the next morning to catch the weekly market, giving us more of a flavour of this lively, but laid back little town.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-before-amp-after">BEFORE &amp; AFTER </h2>



Before going on the yoga retreat, I was stressed out, my energy and concentration were low and my sleep was lousy. From day one at the retreat, I was sleeping through the night (unheard of for me). I could feel myself letting go of my troubles and regaining a feeling of relaxation and peace I hadn’t experienced for a while.



The change was evident in others too. Tired faces become relaxed and brighter, yoga poses became easier and bodies able to stretch that bit further. New friendships were forged, life stories shared and running jokes enjoyed.



Now I’m home, it’s back to life with a bump. But one week on, I do feel that the retreat has given me the reset I was looking for and some wellbeing tools to help me move forward. This includes the experience of daily yoga practice, which I hope will be an incentive to go beyond the weekly class and start practising at home.



I’m already eyeing up the springtime yoga and hiking retreats – and it’s entirely possible that I&#8217;ll become one of the many Kaliyoga returners.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-muddy-verdict">THE MUDDY VERDICT</h2>



Good for: Anyone in need of a reset, looking for an experience more immersive and with longer lasting benefits than the pampering and instant gratification of a spa, in a stunning location and with staff who offer the personal touch. Come solo, with a partner, friend, in a group&nbsp;– minimum age 18 – or even with your dog. 



Not for: Those wanting marble bathrooms and super luxe toiletries will be disappointed; a Kaliyoga yoga retreat focuses on the simple, more meaningful things in life.



The damage: Yoga retreats (May–Sept) are from £216 a night (all inclusive except for flights, transfers and treatments) – you arrive on a Sunday and can stay as long as you like. Hill walking and yoga (Sept–Nov and Feb–May), six nights from £1,200. Women-only Time to Thrive retreats (7–13 Sept), from £205 a night. Or a New Year No Hangover retreat (30 Dec–5 Jan), six nights, from £1,686. All prices based on single occupancy. 



<a href="https://kaliyoga.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Kaliyoga Retreat,</a> 18418 Las Barreras, Granada, Spain.



Words and photos: Ann Dix

Review: Kaliyoga retreat, near Granada, Spain

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