A stylish beachside stay in Salcombe

Dose up on vitamin sea and make a dash to Salcombe in Devon. Muddy checks in to a beachside apartment that swerves the twee seaside decor for a retro vibe and views to die for,

THE LOWDOWN

A lesson in how to make life easy for yourself! Ocean Eyes is a luxurious, two-bedroom apartment that sleeps four, right next to South Sands beach in the tourist gem of Salcombe. Part for the brilliant Luxury Cottages portfolio, whose USP is super-special, premium properties with hotel-level service that you often can’t access elsewhere, the apartment comes with plenty of charm – for starters, a balcony offering direct views out to sea, private car parking (Devon gold dust right there), access to the spa at next door Harbour Beach Club, and with two hotel restaurants within 50 metres.

If you don’t have your bearings on Salcombe, it sits on the banks of the Kingsbridge Estuary within the South Devon Area of Oustanding Natural Beauty, and is well known for its vibrant sailing community, pretty harbour, golden beaches, and a healthy head count of celebrity visitors. Ocean Eyes is a little way out of the main town but, for me, that was part of its charm – Salcombe centre is a few minute’s drive, or if you prefer (and we did), it’s a scenic 30 minute up-and-down coastal amble.

THE VIBE

City apartment takes a beach holiday. Take a lift to the second floor to the modern, airy apartment, and you’ll find some lovely luxe touches like the Hermès products in the bathrooms, a Dolce & Gabbana kettle and toaster (blingy but fun), Ralph Lauren bathrobes, and reams of Le Creuset crockery in various colours. A lovely touch for all guests is the complementary bottle of Ruinart Champagne and a box of Fortnum & Mason biccies that will ease you into your holiday – a generous touch.

The décor at Ocean Eyes is kind of ‘retro modern’, particularly in the main open plan area – none of the ubiquitous blue and white stripes and ‘gone fishing’ seaside vibe that pervades so many coastal rentals. Instead, in keeping with the aesthetic here, there’s a series of graphic black and white stencils on the wall that nod to South Sands and Salcombe Gin. The ‘Welcome Aboard’ message in the hallway is the nearest you get to a tourist nod.

I loved the selection of largely Eighties vinyl to play (Roxy Music, thank you) and the chunky, glamorous coffee table travel books on St Tropez, Amalfi, Monte Carlo and friends. The B&O TV in the lounge was perfect for a family cuddle up to watch a movie at the end of the day, but my favourite area was the sunny, sheltered balcony for morning coffee and late afternoon doze. The sofa is positioned so that no-one looking towards the apartment can see you in the corner while you look straight out to sea.

THE BEDROOMS

There are two double bedrooms here – I brought my kids for my holiday so the second bedroom was converted to two singles but it can easily be made as a double too. The master bedroom looks out across to the hotel opposite, though you’re far enough away not to receive or give anyone else a naked scare! Both bathrooms have double basin ensuites, but the master bathroom also has a bath.

QUAFF & SCOFF

The kitchen is really well equipped so if you’re the type of holidayer who likes to cook, it’s happy days. Those who want to outsource need only head to the Harbour Beach Club and Hotel, opened at the end of 2022 and literally out the front door and to the right, which serves from breakfast to dinner, and also has some fab outside tables and cabanas for sundowners. Across the road is South Sands Hotel – we ate here for dinner on our last night. Definitely special occasion prices so choose your timing and table carefully for optimum value.

Sailor Vie

A 10 minute walk en route to the centre of Salcombe will take you past locals’ favourite The Winking Prawn, an unpretentious café/restaurant that’s open from breakfast to dinner, with views over North Sands. Keep following the road to Salcombe itself and then you have the choice of several pubs and plenty of restaurants.

Just opened a few weeks back under new ownership is Sailor Vie (the name is soon to be changed to Petit Pêche) – I stumbled in on its first day and ended up chatting to the new owner Michael who wants to create a wine bar vibe but with relaxed foods like pizza. He’s also just opened a ‘hatch’ where people can buy tinned G&Ts and takeaway food to head down to the beach.

We ate at The Wardroom, which I can recommend for its fabulous club sandwiches and outdoor seating next to the wharf.

The Wardroom

OUT & ABOUT

A few minutes’ stroll from South Sands beach is Overbecks Garden, National-Trust owned gorgeous subtropical gardens that are open from Sun – Thu, 10.30am – 4pm in holiday season.

Salcombe’s pretty back streets

You can mooch about Salcombe for a morning with its independent shops – big shout outs to Jam Industries, Nike Home and Kitty Ward Pottery! If you’re into water sports you’re in the right place – kayaks, SUPs and boat trips can all be accessed from the town.

In the mood for a tipple? Head to Salcombe Gin Distillery – the bar looks stylish, surrounded by its shiny copper stills, and it’s fun claim to fame (apart from being an award-winning gin) is that it’s one of the only distilleries worldwide where you can arrive by boat.

Venturing further afield, Dartmouth is an easy 30-minute drive and has plenty to recommend. We took a ferry trip around the estuary, taking in the castle and resident seals resting on various pontoons, and the kids absolutely loved it.

Afterwards, we wandered around the indie shops and stopped for nibbles – Woodroast café and Yarn bar and eatery are both worthy of your time. From Dartmouth you’re only 15 minutes from the English Riviera of Torbay if you want to keep going up the coast.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: It’s ideal for families, friends or couples who are looking for a no-hassle break with a beach right on the doorstep. With parking and discounted day passes for the spa facilities at Harbour Beach Club Hotel all boxes are ticked.

Not for: It’s a second-floor apartment so if your children are of the constant ‘garden playing’ variety – even after a whole day on the beach –  it might not be for you.

The damage: Really good value. Prices start at £292 per night but there’s also an extra 20% discount on stays until the end of May with Luxury Cottages. For stays after May, there are dinner vouchers worth £150 for short stays and free spa passes for stays of a week or more.

Book Ocean Eyes from £292 per night for four people (plus an extra 20% discount) via Luxury Cottages.

M
Be the first to comment
Share this story: