THE LOCATION

A five-star fairytale weekender in the Cotswolds? We couldn’t throw our best knickers and wellies in the car fast enough. The Manor House – a honey-stoned mansion, with mullioned windows and stained glass – is tucked away in the bowl of Castle Combe village. A mere 20mins from Bath and 15 mins from Chippenham, it’s an idyllic spot for wild walks, antiques and vintage treasure hunts, foodie finds and star spotting.

One of seven hotels that make up the luxury Exclusive Collection hotel group, this Wiltshire hotel is a hidden gem, set in 365 acres and surrounded by a halo of woodland. The narrow road into lower Castle Combe is your portal back in time. In fact, not a single house has been built here since the 1600s and there’s a strict ban on TV dishes and external wires.

As a result, it’s a popular location for film crews, and can been seen in the original 1967 Doctor Dolittle, Stardust, The Wolf Man, Stephen Spielberg’s War Horse and Downton Abbey. Make your way through the village (past the tourists on foot and ‘No Parking’ signs screaming to visitors to get off my land), swoop over the river Bybrook and down the drive to the hotel – and it’s an Instagrammers dream.

This is destination indulgence. The car park is away from the front of the entrance (it’s all about the unspoilt views) and electric charging points were a nice touch. The star of the show is its Michelin-starred restaurant Bybrook offering a menu of seasonal dishes, with many ingredients grown in the kitchen garden. No light pollution means you can sink a cocktail while checking out the constellations and, if you love golf, don’t miss the chance to play the hotel’s picturesque 18-hole championship course.

THE VIBE

Lots of period drama. The main house dates back to the 14th century and the stone walls are chunky. Be warned the staircases are also made of old stone so high heels could be a challenge – especially when you’e gawping at stained glass, oak panelling, family crests and oversized fireplaces during your visit.

The ground floor lounges have views across the lawn, the Time Bar gives private members vibes with its apothecary style displays of spirits, dim lighting and comfy seating. Apparently it was the spot where Margaret Thatcher wrote her memoirs, we can only hope the creative wheels were oiled with an occasional whiskey.

There’s always a danger that five star can feel a bit stuffy, but the staff are conscientious, friendly and there’s an atmosphere of fun rather than standing on ceremony. Bybrook restaurant is the most modern bit of the hotel with the chic decor matching the Modern British menu wrapped in an historic shell. There’s no dress code, but the majority of people were in smart casual with those celebrating special occasions turning up the glamour.

The grounds contain a lovely Italianate garden, spilling down from the hill behind the hotel. There’s no pool, but if you fancy a game of tennis, fishing or round of golf, it’s there for the taking.

THE BEDROOMS

There are 50 rooms in total – 21 in the main house and 29 in the quaint cottages, within staggering distance of The Castle Inn – the village pub also owned by Exclusive Collection group. The hotel rooms are full of character and traditional in design, with luxurious bathrooms offering Molton Brown products.

Entry level Cosy rooms are actually pretty generous in size with queen or king beds, but as you go up the hotel room food chain the luxury cranks up – the spacious Plush rooms we stayed in have a sitting area, enormous bathroom with double sink, rain shower and a bath that would fit a family of four. There are also seven suites, and a room with a hot tub.

SCOFF & QUAFF

Twinkle twinkle Michelin star, you don’t have to eat at The Bybrook when you visit Manor House (an a la carte menu is served in the lounge and you can dine at The Castle Inn), but you’d be mad not to. Executive chef Rob Potter has held a Michelin star at the restaurant since 2017 for his traditional, yet technical, cooking – and he is a talent.

The tasting menu (£145pp, wine flight £90pp) is a smash hit of dishes. Some of the highlights include: the bread course – carb heaven and the Ampersand butter was so good; the A5 Wagyu was small (it is an eye-wateringly expensive bit of meat) but melt in the mouth delicious; the monkfish was cooked to perfection and served with a sauce you wanted to bathe in, and don’t get us started on the Langley Chase Farm mutton with morel, wild garlic and asparagus.

Yum. The biggest surprise of the evening was just how good an apple tart tastes with a ripe blue cheese – it shouldn’t work, but it was phenomenal. Every course, every mouthful was a joy to eat.

If you’re not adventurous with food or don’t like foodie surprises, The Bybrook won’t be your jam, but it’s worth pushing yourself out of your culinary comfort zone.

Make a point of stopping in the Time Bar for a pre or post dinner cocktails. The mixologist’s cocktail pun game is strong, the VIPeach and Rees Lightening are definitely worth ordering.

Breakfast is was enjoyable too, with a bulging buffet. The hot dishes were on the traditional side, including a full English, salmon and scrambled eggs or various combinations of eggs Benedict. So if you’ve jumped on a brekkie trend, you won’t find it on the menu here.

KID FRIENDLY?

Ideally leave the kids at home. There are rooms available that sleep four and some rooms interconnect. Under-11s are not allowed in The Bybrook, but very welcome to dine in the lounges and in The Castle Inn.

DOG FRIENDLY?

Absolutely, plenty of walks (they’ll leave you a map), 14 dog-friendly rooms and you’re pooch will have a Fatboy dog bed waiting, towel for mucky paws, poo bags a little treat.

ACCESSIBILITY

One fully accessible cottage (no ramp required) and a couple of cottages that are accessible via a ramp.

OUT & ABOUT

A stroll around the village is a must – and doesn’t take long. As you leave the hotel, head towards the pretty Grade I listed St Andrew’s Church to see one of the oldest working clocks in Britain and a monument of Norman Knight Sir Walter de Dunstanville, Baron of Castle Combe. Next, get a shot of the medieval market cross which is handily located outside the Castle Inn. A short walk up the hill you’ll also find Doctor Dolittle’s house from the 1967 film. For the ultimate Castle Combe pic, form an orderly queue at the bridge over the River Bybrook where every tourist is waiting for their moment to take a pic with the historic village in the background.

This walk will take less than an hour. Pop on your wellies (Manor House has a selection of Hunters your borrow) and head up the hill for a 5.5-mile leg stretching circular walk that trails off to the right into woodland. Petrol heads will clock the familiar whirr of cars buzzing round the Castle Combe Circuit race track. It offers a number of different experiences for car fans, including passenger rides, driving experiences and car shows.

Beyond Castle Combe, head to Bath for the spa and shopping. Or drive 15mins to Lacock, location film buffs love the Harry Potter connection or Corsham – an historic market town that’s well worth a mooch.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Foodies, romantics, film buffs, golfers and slaves to the ‘Gram. If you appreciate good service, attention to detail and seek an escape from a 5G phone signal, you’ll love it here.

Not for: Families are welcome, but the vibe is more grown up, so not ideal for young children. The location and interiors are a love letter to the past, so the fashion-forward may not appreciate the period charm.

The damage: Double rooms from £295 per night including breakfast. Free Wi-Fi. The Plush room we stayed in is from £525.

The Manor House, West St, Castle Combe, Chippenham SN14 7HX. Tel: 01249 782 206.