THE LOWDOWN

Set in a 19th century mansion house (once an orphanage), Hotel Du Vin York is set back from a busy road that connects you to the racecourse. Just outside the city walls, it provides just enough breathing space from the hurly-burly of York’s touristy lanes, is 10 minutes from the train station and 20 minutes from the historic York Minster. If you’re visiting for a flutter on the gee gees, the racecourse is a 10-minute walk in the other direction (also a lovely place if you just want a walk).

THE VIBE

I’ve been to a fair few Hotel Du Vins and this one fits its boutique mould but has loads of character that is entirely its own. Gentleman’s club meets French Noir, Hotel Du Vin York is sophisticated and welcoming – despite its previous life as a 19th century orphanage. The building is a mix of big, grand spaces and archways and tiny rooms. Think quirky not creepy.

So, the gorgeous sweeping staircase with wine-glass chandelier, leads down to a rabbit-warren-style corridor that houses the reception desk. Follow your nose and you’ll find the snug, tartan-carpeted lounge, an industrial-look bar and an indoor courtyard-style space and atrium-vaulted restaurant.

It’s romantic, but in a sophisticated, sexy way – the sort of escape that your other half will love as much as you. There’s even a cigar hut with lounge chairs outside.

SCOFF & QUAFF

With its terracotta walls, faux foliage and Laura Ashley-esque curtains, the restaurant is relaxed and comfortable. The small gold mushroom-style lamps on each table turn the intimacy dial up when the night’s draw in and the lights are dimmed.

I stayed on a Sunday night and was amazed at how busy and buzzy the restaurant was. Apart from one table of four (a very grown-up-looking 30^th birthday celebration which bore absolutely no resemblance to the inelegant Champagne-fuelled antics that marked the end of my own third decade), tables were exclusively couples. This is definite date escape territory.

The menu is mostly classic French cuisine – six choices of starter and five mains, along with a few steak options. The tiger prawns (pleasingly pre-peeled and easy to scoff) were delicious, while my friend’s tomato, olive and vegan parmesan tart delivered a big hit of flavour.

For main course, I opted for classic French cassoulet was rich and warming but really filling. The steak was apparently top-notch and the triple-cooked chips ridiculously moreish (yeah, I know I’ve just said I was full – they were that good!).

As you’d expect from Hotel Du Vin, the wine list is well curated, with four pages of Champagnes, whites, reds and rosés. The catch-up conversation with one of my oldest mates was too good to waste long looking so we plumped for the house white – the right choice. A lovely, crisp wine and one of the best house wines I’ve tasted in a while.

Rather hunker down in your lovely room? I don’t blame you. There’s an all-night menu of full meals if you can’t bear to leave that big bed.

Breakfasts are done well, with cute and very tasty pots of fruit and granola or bircher muesli, alongside cereals and pastries. There’s a good choice of cooked breakfast options too, from Full English to avocado on toast and Eggs Benedict.

PILLOW TALK

The bedrooms are all named after Champagnes and ours (Chapel Down) was approaching perfect. Really spacious with an oh-so-comfy super-king bed and armchairs with distressed leather footstools to boot (bliss to flop into after pounding the streets of York). The dark, handsome good looks of the main hotel carry through up here, with black furniture and full-length curtains, dark wallpaper and wooden sleigh bed. Sophisticated, sexy, warm.

My bath-deprived companion (who frequently laments only having showers at home) was beyond excited to discover the vast charcoal-tiled, grey tongue and groove bathroom with a generous freestanding, claw-footed bath as its centrepiece and fragrant L’Occitane products, so no need to pack that full size bubble bath. It did mean I lost my mate to it for quite some time. I kicked back with the TV – free channels only here though.

The other rooms? I had a quick nose and all the bathrooms have luxurious touches, most are spacious and even the smaller ones still feel special.

All the ingredients for a great night’s sleep are here: near-silence from the street outside (despite the huge period double-height windows), cloud-like duvet and decently-firm pillow. Come morning, coffee lovers will appreciate the Nespresso machine. Don’t panic tea drinkers, you’re not forgotten.

OUT & ABOUT

It’s a buzzy city with a lot going on, but who can resist York Restaurant Week (6-12 Mar) – a celebration of the city’s fantastic foodie scene. Only the roomiest clothing for this trip. Alternatively, the York Chocolate Festival (6-10 Apr) sounds sweet – with demos, tastings and a large bill from your dentist. York became a northern powerhouse thanks to the famous Rowntree chocolate-making family, so it would be rude not to celebrate. It’s worth noting York also boasts the largest maize maze in the UK. It opens on 15 Jul-4 Sep, and is a great opportunity to lose the kids for an hour while you enjoy that Flat White in peace. York is, of course, famous for its big, beautiful racecourse. It’s just 10 minutes’ walk from the hotel. Events and races kick off from May. If you’re into frocks and fascinators, then the Sky Bet Ebor Festival is the biggie (23-26 Aug) and Ladies Day is on Thu 24 Aug.

If you’re visiting York, tick off the must sees – the city walls are just five minutes’ away. Walking the city walls is the law. Well, not quite, but everyone should do it once. It takes about an hour, and helps you get your bearings. Duck into the cute, cobbled, boutique-lined streets of The Shambles (a street that played a starring role in the Harry Potter films) for shopping and scoffing. York Minister is worth a visit (pop into lovely indie café North-South for lunch and Pairings Wine Bar later on) and get your step count in climbing Clifford’s Tower the last bit of York Castle still standing. The Railway Museum and Jorvik Viking Centre are fun too.

KID FRIENDLY?

Kids can stay on an extra bed in your room (they have to be over 18 to have their own), there are some connecting rooms and the restaurant offers a children’s menu. But to me, the hotel has more of an adult feel.

DOG FRIENDLY?

Well-behaved dogs over the age of one can share one of the pet-friendly rooms with their owner for an additional £20 per night. Just make sure you call ahead and confirm your furry friend’s stay. Woof!

ACCESSIBILITY

There are four fully adapted rooms plus lift access. The restaurant and bars are fully accessible.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: A romantic city break or a Champagne-fuelled catch-up with your best mate. A buzzy and interesting city to explore within minutes of a loungey hotel to hangout.

Not for: While kids are well-catered for on the Bistro menu, the hotel feels more grown up – sophisticated and intimate – rather than a fun, family hangout.

The damage: Starters in Bistro Du Vin from £7.95; mains from £12.95 (or from £32.95 for a steak). Kids menu available. Classic rooms including breakfast from £147 per night and it’s about £50 more for a deluxe like Chapel Down. Check out the offer, the Glorious Getaway with Champagne, dinner, bed and breakfast is from £190 or Taste Du Vin which includes, five course tasting menu, wine flight + bed and breakfast, from £205.

Hotel Du Vin York, 89 The Mount, York YO24 1AX. Tel: 01904 405260.  

WIN! Head to Reader Treats to bag a two-night escape at one of Hotel du Vin‘s idyllic locations – complete with fine wines, fabulous food, and deluxe boutique bedrooms.