THE LOWDOWN

Tucked away in a rare, make that very rare, quiet street in central Brighton, you’ll find Hotel du Vin Brighton. Located on Ship Street, the hotel is characterised by its flamboyant facade – a Mock Tudor building constructed in 1934 for Henekey’s wine merchants, before that it was an inn (more wine drinking, no doubt). So it’s pretty apt that the wine theme continues inside – you can see the hidden wine cellar underneath the Bistro restaurant. Hotel du Vin Brighton offers 49 rooms, in an historic building within walking distance of The Lanes and Brighton beach. Best room in the house? The Sea View suite complete with telescope for star gazing and ah ok, people watching on the beach too.

THE VIBE

The age of the building and the layout can seem a little confusing but adds to the intrigue. You walk in under a beautiful beamed arch – very Henry VIII – and into a twinkly courtyard which is a perfect sun trap in the summer, but wrap up warm for winter sunsets. The interior doesn’t disappoint, lots of exposed wood and brick, with pops of luxury and rustic textures. Think dark wood, emerald panelling and glittering chandeliers in the hotel bar, more on that later. There’s also an upstairs courtyard clearly designed to enjoy a glass of wine at sunset or even sunrise if that’s your thing – the bar is open 24 hours after all. But it’s anything but a party palace, instead there’s a gentle hum in the bar and a relaxed feeling.

Selected rooms overlook the courtyard but the majority are a climb up the grand staircase. No need to drag your luggage up the wooden hill, there’s a lift or the reception staff will take it to your room. Keep your eye out for the fun quirks, a wall of clocks in reception, cheeky retro adverts and playful paintings in the restaurant. It all makes for an electric mix of luxury without any of the pretence. 

SCOFF & QUAFF

You don’t have to be a guest to dine at the restaurant, Bistro du Vin, which serves up classic French dishes inspired by traditional home cooking. The food was delicious, using locally produced ingredients, and the ambience was just the right balance of relaxed yet sophisticated. The look is a little Parisian, curved seats, delicate and soft furnishings. 

There’s an impressive choice of gin and tonics with all the modern paraphernalia but I went simple and classic. The French would be impressed, I think… I enjoyed this with some saucisson sec and sourdough. It wasn’t technically included in the prix fixe menu but our great waiter was happy to accommodate a swap – I opted against side dishes with the main and created my version of aperitivo.

I couldn’t decide on a starter so I convinced my plus one to share, (I used a few powers of persuasion). We enjoyed the chicken liver parfait with brioche toast and raisin chutney as well as the ham hock and parsley terrine with celeriac remoulade and toasted pain de campagne. Both were equally impressive and a great note to kick things off with.

Any idea of sharing went out of the window when it came to my moules mariniére served with the crunchy-on-the-outside-but-fluffy-on-the-inside-chips the ideal candidate for dipping into the creamy sauce. My plus one tried the steak haché aka the ‘posh hamburger’ with chips, peppercorn sauce and salad which went down a treat.

I barely had room for dessert, but like the trouper I am I ‘forced’ down the crème brûlée which was a very generous portion. My plus one devoured the rum baba – the clean plates all round tell the whole story. Delicious. Struggling to agree on red or white, we enjoyed the Maison Rouge (*£23) which was light enough for me to enjoy with fish and punchy enough for the meat. We took the rest of the bottle into the bar, which was no problem for the attentive staff, who are friendly, but not too friendly, chatty, check in regularly but not too much. They were just right in every way. Goldilocks eat your heart out!

Not that I had the capacity to eat any more, even the following morning, but I made it for an early breakfast. There’s a buffet featuring the usual suspects as well as a coffee machine – which was surprisingly strong and tasty – and I also ordered smoked salmon and scrambled eggs which was excellent. Best of all, it came out at speed when I mentioned I had to run to catch a train. 

There’s no point visiting a hotel with ‘wine’ in its name and not doing it the honour of at least trying the wine. II cracked open a bottle of red from the mini bar while in the roll top bath, complete with seaside views. When the weather warms up I’ve already planned an afternoon with a Sauvignon Blanc in the courtyard. The bar is also open to non-guests, I’ve spent many a dark winter evening gossiping in this elegant bar – something that is sadly in short supply in Brighton. Considering where it’s located the bar is surprisingly large and light with two floors and a very high ceiling with a mezzanine ideal for admiring the giant chandeliers.

There are a few little hidden spots to have more intimate conversation and groups are catered for with large tables. I loved the glass-walled tasting room, with its stellar wine list ticking off Italian, Spanish, Australian, Californian and even alcohol-free wines as well as 60 different whiskies on offer. Best of all, they serve Bolney Wine Estate’s Classics Cuvée – one of Muddy’s favourites. 

PILLOW TALK

The best rooms are the suites, although all are spacious with art-deco inspired interiors in teal, emerald and terracotta shades with coastal themed touches and selected rooms have sea views but with a hop, skip and a jump you can be on the beach. I stayed in the Sea View Suite, with not one, but two roll top baths where I wasted no time in running a bubble bath, and admiring the beachy view. Full marks go to the ice white towels, so thick and fluffy it felt like a hug, which I then paired with a bath robe. I am a little like the Princess and the Pea when it comes to mattresses and the giant one in my room didn’t disappoint nor did the obligatory Egyptian cotton bedlinen.

Champagne flutes are already in the room – what else do you expect at a hotel with ‘du vin’ in the title? But often lacking in other hotels, something I notice as I’ve a mild addiction to bubbles. There are Nepresso machines and desks, good wifi and, better still, tablets and laptops are allowed in the bar if you want a wine – I mean change of scene – while you work.

OUT & ABOUT 

Brighton has a lot to offer. But if you’re going to make the most of your visit, book your stay to coincide with the Brighton Festival (6-28 May). It’s a month of cool culture with a melting pot of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film, literature, debate, outdoor and community events to see, across different venues. Not to be missed – the stunning immersive Van Gogh Alive exhibition when it stops off at the Brighton Dome (12 May–6 Aug).

Elsewhere, the i360 viewing platform is a short walk away and a little insider tip for you – the terrace at the café opposite the ticket booth is a hidden gem. Soho House’s Brighton Beach Club is five minutes saunter and members can enjoy a dip in the mini pool. You can’t come to the city without shopping in The Lanes – home to designer boutiques, upmarket jewellers, antique stores and vintage fashion. The Royal Pavilion ( aka Brighton’s Taj Mahal) the former seaside residence of King George IV is nearby and not to be missed for the flamboyant decor alone and the history of extravagant parties. Further afield you’ll find some of the best vineyards in the country if not the world, we are biased in Sussex. I recommend the Albourne Estate, and Bolney Wine Estate.

KID FRIENDLY?

There’s an everyone’s welcome vibe. You can request an extra bed in your room (they have to be over 18 to have their own) and there’s a kids menu. So yes, but the hotel feels more grown up.

DOG FRIENDLY?

Well-behaved dogs (age 1+) can stay in pet-friendly rooms with their owners for an extra £20pn. Just make sure you mention you are bringing fido when you book.

ACCESSIBILITY

The restaurant and bars are fully accessible, but there’s only one disabled access room, so get in quick.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Romantic weekends away, girly breaks and group getaways. Anyone who enjoys wine (who are the people that don’t?) would also be happy here. 

Not for: Young families, people wanting to party or craving a quiet countryside break.

The damage: The Deluxe Du Vin packages – two nights, dinner, bed and breakfast package is from £406, but rooms start from £205 per night and you can upgrade Suite Dreams giving you one of the best rooms, dinner, bed and breakfast from £223. See the full range of packages and offers here.

Fancy a luxe stay for two on us? Of course you do. Win a two-night stay at Hotel du Vin Brighton, plus dinner and breakfast. Clickety click to enter.

Hotel du Vin Brighton, 2 Ship Street, Brighton, BN1 1AD. Tel 01273 855221