THE LOCATION

One of the seven hotels that make up the luxury Exclusive Collection hotel group, Pennyhill Park is a five star country house hotel and spa, set in just over 120 acres of countryside, a few miles from the village of Bagshot and near Camberley. Close to junction three of the M3 motorway, 30 minutes from Heathrow and about an hour from central London, you’ll arrive at the 19th century ivy-clad manor house via a long sweeping driveway flanked by immaculately manicured gardens, past the England rugby team’s training ground (no burly men running around in shorts on my approach but you may have more luck).

THE VIBE

Grown up luxury. The original manor house is all pared-back elegance with portraits on the wall, parquet floors, damask wallpaper and wrought-iron staircase, while the more modern additions such as the marble clad spa and grand entrance hall with its fireplace and views down the hall to the Michelin-starred Laytmer restaurant are undeniably impressive.

There’s an eclectic range of styles in the public spaces, from heritage in the manor house area to Rococo-meets-Roman baths in the spa and English country garden as you mooch around the grounds but somehow it all works together.

The hotel is vast, and has facilities to match – in addition to its famous spa, there are three restaurants, a fitness suite, various lounge areas, a games room (think table football, a pool table, and a retro arcade game) outdoor tennis courts, TV room and even a running track around the perimeter of the grounds.

THE BEDROOMS

The 124 bedrooms and suites are all individually furnished, so ask for a four poster bed, or a hot tub in your room, suites with two rooms, or somewhere with living space and private garden and they’ll be able to find it for you.

Entry level Cosy rooms are actually pretty generous in size, but as you go up the hotel room food chain the luxury cranks up – my Junior Suite had a huge sitting area, and access to my own garden area. Honeymooners head straight for the Heywood suite with its own balcony and opulent interiors, or the stand-alone two-storey Granary – nice and private (!) with its own garden too.

SCOFF & QUAFF

For immense breakfasts (both buffet and à la carte), laid back lunches or casual dinners, the Hillfield restaurant off the main reception is your go-to. Most restaurants bang on about their farm-to-fork ethos these days, but Hillfield actually lives it, sourcing 80 per cent of its produce within 25 miles of the hotel. The restaurant is vast, with a long bar to one side of the room, and decorated with wood-panelled walls, Sixties-influenced furnishings, and British woodland frescos on the pillars.

Dinner was excellent – a moist, buttery, giant single scallop (aided by caviar with girolle mushrooms, below) followed by a 50 day dry-aged 7oz fillet of beef from nearby Barracks Farm, with BBQ mushroom, watercress purée, beef-dripping chips and peppercorn sauce.

However, the main gastro event at Pennyhill Park is undoubtedly Latymer, one of only 18 restaurants in the UK to hold 5AA rosettes and newly retaining its Michelin star for the third year athough that’s water off a duck’s back for Head Chef Steve Smith – the former Catey Chef of the Year has won a Michelin star for over 20 years.

Set in the original part of the manor house, there’s all the wooded beams, fireplaces and leaded   windows you could dream of, along with more outré flourishes like the button-upholstered plush velvet seating in purple and navy. You’re in an adult-only, white table cloth zone at Latymer, with a seven course Discovery Tasting menu that is more event than meal – they recommend you put aside three hours to really savour it and it really does take that long, don’t skimp on your timings!  

We were driving back that day so unfortunately couldn’t make the most of the accompanying wine flight but the meal was exquisite –  it was clear something brilliant was about to happen even from the starters – four dishes including a Spenwood cheese and truffle choux puff and the prettiest heritage carrot tart you’ve ever seen but you get the gist below, it was all just terrific

The waiters were attentive and knowledgeable and the restaurant was buzzy even at lunchtime. If £175pp for the Discovery menu feels a bit punchy, there’s also a four course lunch menu for £95pp.

If you’re thinking to book for late spring/summer – let’s manifest some sunshine for you – other lovely options are picnic hampers for £85 from Hillfield (think salads, sandwiches, sausage rolls and sweet treats) to eat in the grounds, or casual dining with BBQ, woodfired flatbreads and an outside bar at Lily Pond Terrrace

THE SPA

A massive selling point for Pennyhill Park is its superb spa, accessed in a separate building a minute’s walk from the hotel  – a 45,000 square foot whopper of a marble-clad wellness centre with indoor 25 metre swimming pool, a second 18 metre outdoor swimming pool (run at a lower temperature to replicate wild swimming), over 50 fitness classes, and a snazzy new thermal suite that includes a tepidarium, foot spas, mud treatment room, ice room, cold plunge pool and salt inhalation room.

You want more? Four newly opened Cabanas overlook the spa grounds kitted with large copper baths, with spa jets, loungers, and, crucially, sunbathing decks – ideal for summer days by the pool.

There’s definitely continued investment and thought for the spa guest here, with Pennyhill and its sister hotel South Lodge in Sussex, partnering with UK charity Wellness for Cancer to launch holistic massage and facial treatments for those touched receiving treatment, in remission or nearing end of life.

It’s part of a bigger Beauty Reloaded initiative that offers gentle deep relaxation/sleep treatments such as the Pro Sleep Massage to combat the rising cases of insomnia.

I’m fortunate that I don’t suffer from lack of sleep – I’m an easy does it 7-8 hours a night gal – but on the morning of my departure I had this massage, a mixture of gentle body brushing, tranquil Ayurvedic-derived deep, rhythmic music and essential oils, and it nearly sent me back off again, which is saying something! For those needing a better night’s sleep whatever the reason, it’s a great additional therapy option.

However, it’s also worth pointing out that if you’re someone who is, shall we say, ‘wellness-light’ rather than fully into the health journey, there’s zero judgement on a gin and tonic by the pool! There’s a handy bar just outside doors, and after my Friday night tussle with the M25, I gladly joined the various towelling-robed couples having wine or a stiff drink on their loungers.  

DISABILITY ACCESS?

All the restaurants have ramp access and the spa has lift access also. The Lansdown is an adapted room for those who want to stay over.

OUT & ABOUT

For an overnighter you might just decide to stay put and make use of the hotel facilities, but for trips out, Windsor is a mere 11 miles away (tip: there’s apparently quite a good castle there), Ascot is 15 minutes, and Kew Gardens is 35 minutes.

THE MUDDY VERDICT

Good for: Spa seekers, girly breakers, foodies and romantics. Anyone who appreciates good service and attention to detail will love it here.

Not for: The Latymer restaurant and spa and pools are adults-only and there’s no children’s playground, so not ideal for families. The interiors veer towards the traditional so may not enthuse the fashion-forward.

The damage: Double rooms from £470, rising to £1,270 for the Granary Suite.  

Pennyhill Park, London Road, Bagshot, Surrey, GU19 5EU. Tel: 01276 471 774.