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Into London: the capital reopens

With the tourist count at an all-time low, now is the time to swerve the endless queues and enjoy London's cultural bounty.

We’ve had it on good authority that London has moved past its 28 Days Later phase and is moving more into Mary Poppins. So, less deserted streets and episodic zombie attacks and more roads you can actually walk down without being mown down by livid commuting bikers and an inexplicable tuk-tuk. Obviously, the international tourist count is at an all-time low and even residents are choosing to stay local if they can – why go central when you can go to Clapham?

Plus, London Mural Festival is in full swing, the brand new festival features open-air works from 200+ artists and 75 large-scale murals and activations across the city from Walthamstow to Wembley Park (click here for the map to start planning your route). But, generally speaking, now is the time to swerve the endless queues, sweaty tube descents and overflowing bins. Here’s our guide to getting the most out of our fabulous capital.

Southbank

Bernadine Evaristo, joint winner of the Booker Prize in 2019 with her novel Girl, Woman, Other.

Those of you coming into Waterloo will have a full gamut of delights awaiting you including The Hayward Gallery, currently showing free exhibit Phenomenal Women – a tribute to the UK’s black female university professors. A few minutes’ walk south of Waterloo, you’ll find the Imperial War Museum London, which has a new atrium exhibition, History of Bombs, courtesy of Chinese artist Ai Weiwei (as part of the museum’s Refugees season). It’s free, but again, only a pre-booked ticket will gain you entry. Fancy a stroll down the river to Bankside? We’d recommend it as Tate Modern is open, as is the extended Andy Warhol exhibition. Book here.

Peckish? Well, Udderbelly is hosting StreetEats down on the riverfront, a pop-up festival with food trucks (Jamaican-inspired Coco Labelle has pricked up our ears), drinks and entertainment, all open from midday to 9pm. The Skylon restaurant, at Royal Festival Hall, is open or stop by on the weekend as the (in)famous two-course bottomless Prosecco brunch (£48pp) is back on.

Kensington

Photo by Peter Boettcher

Not wildly near any of the London terminals (Victoria or Marylebone are probably the nearest), but Kensington (both South and High St) are home to some of the country’s best cultural offerings. The Design Museum off High St Ken partially opened on 31 July and is hosting the five-star-rated exhibition Electronic: From Kraftwerk to The Chemical Brothers (above). It’s about electronic music, if you hadn’t guessed and it’s popular, so book early.

A pleasant walk past multiple embassies will land you in South Ken, home of the Natural History Museum, the V&A (they’ve opened selected galleries) and the Science Museum. Pre-booked, timed entry tickets are the name of the game here so don’t just turn up as you will be sad and forced to do a loop of Hyde Park by way of an alternative. And as it’s Kensington, don’t expect anything, you know… low rent. We recommend heading to The Ivy Kensington Brasserie on High St Ken.

East London/The City

For the contingent coming in from Essex, Norfolk and Suffolk, you’ll probably find yourself at London Liverpool Street and want to know what you can do in walking distance. Well, that depends on how far you’re prepared to walk. In and around the area, you have Whitechapel Gallery that is open and showing ‘Accelerate Your Escape: Gary Hume explores the Hiscox Collection’, which is the first time some of the works have been seen in public. It’s on until 3 Jan. Obviously pre-book.

The almost-impossible-to-get-into (well, it always was when we lived in town) Sky Garden in Fenchurch Street is taking bookings but you will need to be masked-up if you’re not drinking or eating. Shoreditch’s (mostly outdoor) BOXPARK is open for business as is the Brick Lane second-hand market (where I once bought the most amazing pair of Seventies leather boots) and Columbia Rd Flower Market on Sundays – although social distancing is in place so expect one-way systems and queues.

For eating, Townsend at the Whitechapel Gallery (opened in February, just before lockdown hit) is back up and running and there’s a free glass of wine for everyone who books to see the gallery exhibitions. You might also want to try Smokestak, a BBQ restaurant in Shoreditch, which is offering a starter, burger, side and gelato for £20.

Greenwich

Greenwich – and its incredible cultural and entertainment offer – is now all open. Turn up this weekend (with your pre-booked ticket, of course) and the Cutty Sark and Royal Observatory are yours for the taking as are the Queen’s House Art Gallery and exhibitions at the National Maritime Museum. The museum’s shop and cafe will also be welcoming visitors. The Emirates Air Line is always worth effort (and queues will be minimal) so do make the time to float over the Thames. For food, artisan burger purveyors Honest Burger are just off the park, but if you fancy fine dining, Gordon Ramsay’s The Narrow isn’t a million miles away in Limehouse.

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