Acid-tongued food critic Jay Rayner shares his food secrets
He’s the UK’s sharpest-tongued food critic, now Jay Rayner spills on his cooking style, his juiciest foodie memories, and which ingredients get him hot under the collar.a

Award-winning restaurant critic and food writer Jay Rayner has spent 25 years sampling dishes from humble diners to the finest restaurants. Now, he’s finally letting us in on the culinary secrets he’s picked up along the way. In his first cookbook, Nights Out at Home, (one of Muddy’s Top 10 cookbooks of the season!) Rayner brings us 60 mouth-watering recipes inspired by the dishes that stole his heart – think miso-glazed aubergine, a cheeky DIY version of the Ivy’s crispy duck salad, and even the famed tandoori lamb chops from London’s Tayyabs, shared for the first time. With a dash of Rayner’s humour and storytelling, it’s a true celebration of memorable meals and the chefs who created them. We caught up with Jay to chat about his cooking style, most memorable food moments, and his all-time favourite ingredients.
How would you sum up your cooking style and food philosophy?
Remember, cooking is meant to be fun, so don’t sweat it. You can always try again another day.
Most memorable moment at work?
Being fed blueberries by Will Smith on the One Show sofa.
What is your career highlight?
Nothing to do with food! It was playing a jazz piano duet with Jeff Goldblum live on what was then Twitter.
Ever cooked for any celebs?
I have friends who are quite well known, and I’ve cooked for them. Once, I cooked with Stanley Tucci – we made his version of the Timpano together. That was a lot of fun.
Biggest mistake you’ve ever made at work?
Telling One Show guest Ricky Gervais about a funny line cut from my script because it was accidentally filthy. He insisted on saying it on screen. It turned into an incident, and the clip still pops up on social media!

Favourite chef and why they inspire you?
As a restaurant critic, naming favourites can be dangerous. The others sulk. Not a good look.
When you’re hungry and tired, what do you cook?
Cheese on toast, but stacked with extras like bacon and, if I have some, ‘nduja.
What do you recommend for a date night – cooking-wise?
Something slow-cooked, so you don’t need to be in the kitchen when your date arrives. Anything you eat with your hands, like oysters – eating with your hands is sexy.
All-time favourite cookbooks?
New British Classics by Gary Rhodes, Roast Chicken and Other Stories by Simon Hopkinson and Lindsey Bareham, and The Book of Jewish Food by Claudia Roden.
Favourite type or nationality of cuisine and why?
As a critic, I can’t really have a favourite. But I do love French bistro classics, Sichuan, Turkish, Pakistani grills… It never stops.
Best kitchen gadget you own?
My tired old blitzer. It’s so old, it sometimes cuts out. I need a new one, but I’m attached to the old one.
Most underrated ingredient and why?
Dijon mustard. It adds flavour and acidity, and it’s a fantastic emulsifier for sauces.
Favourite local foodie spot?
Ken’s Fish Bar on Half Moon Lane in Herne Hill – fantastic chips.
Top cooking mantra?
Sniff the air. The smell will tell you when things are going right and when they’re going wrong.
Dishes every home cook should master?
How to roast a chicken and make a meringue. I’ve got a killer meringue method in my book!
Nights Out at Home by Jay Rayner (Figtree, £22)
